This issue was reported to me by [@madebytoya on Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/madebytoya/). I've turned it into an issue here so it is available for others to read/learn from/give input on. Toya made a jaeger draft for a model with a biceps circumference of 36cm. However, the draft ended up with a 56cm sleeve (at the biceps) which is too much. So what's up with that? It's [draft xukqn](https://freesewing.org/drafts/xukqn) but I don't think it's shared so I've attached a PDF. On first inspection, the issue is (at least partially) caused by the large difference between the **shoulder to shoulder** and **across back** measurements. The **shoulder to shoulder** measurement is 49cm, while the **across back** was 41cm. An 8cm difference between these two is probably an indicator that one of the measurements is incorrectly take. Typically, it's the **across back** measurement, as that one is not so obvious to measure correctly. ### The effects on the draft If you have a look at [draft xukqn](https://freesewing.org/drafts/fsvyk), you'll notice that the armholes cut very deep into the front and back panel. That is because the narrowest point between the armholes (on the back) is a result of the **across back** measurement. > If the link to the draft doesn't work for you, it's because it's not a shared draft. I've attached the PDF to this issue. Once the armhole is drawn, we need to construct a sleevehead that fits this armhole. However, because the armhole cuts so deep, the length of the sleevecap seam is very long, and the only way to properly fit a sleeve in that hole is to make it wider. Yes, the pattern does not respect the biceps circumference. But that's because it needs to draw a sleeve that fits into the armhole. And the armhole is the problem. ### An updated draft In [this draft](https://freesewing.org/drafts/rnatg), which is a fork of [draft xukqn](https://freesewing.org/drafts/xukqn) I have changed the **across back** measurement to 46 cm which I expect will be closer to reality. As you can see, the armholes now look what you would expect them to look like, and as a result, the sleeve is also looking a lot better. I've drafted this in the paperless theme so you can quickly check the sleeve width. In this draft, it is (at the biceps) about 49cm. ### But I want it narrower A 49cm sleeve for a 36cm biceps might still feel like too much. It's hard to draw a line about what's right and wrong, as this is as much a style choice as anything else. While a jacket is an over-garment, perhaps we've been too generous with our defaults, and should have made the sleeve more narrow. No need to despair though, you don't have to stick with the defaults. To make the sleeve more narrow, you have two parameters at your disposal in the **advanced* section: - **Armhole depth factor** : Decrease it to make a shallower armhole, thus a shorter armhole seam, and thus a narrower sleeve - **Sleevecap height factor** : Increase it to make a higher sleevecap, this will lengthen the sleevecap seam, and the sleeve will be narrower to compensate. I've [created a fork](https://freesewing.org/drafts/fsvyk) that has both these options adapted. In this version, the sleeve is 41cm wide at the biceps. *Note:* : Strictly speaking, you could also lower the sleevecap ease as that will have an effect on the length of the sleevecap seam, and thus on the sleeve width. However, sleevecap ease is a choice that should be made based on the used fabric, not for fit. I hope this was useful, don't hesitate to reach out if you have additional questions. [freesewing.xukqn.pdf](https://github.com/freesewing/core/files/1806113/freesewing.xukqn.pdf)
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This issue appears to be discussing a feature request or bug report related to the repository. Based on the content, it seems to be resolved. The issue was opened by joostdecock and has received 0 comments.
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